Very long ago, Brahma, the creator of the world and one of the Supreme Lords of the Hindu Trinity, decided to perform a yagna (ritual of religious worship) according to the prescription of the sacred book, Veda. Inspired by a second member of the Trinity, Shiva, he decided to travel the Earth carrying a lotus. Wherever the flower fell from his hands, there he would perform his ritual.
The lotus fell three times, and water emerged from the earth forming lakes at all three locations. Brahma named the places Main, Medium and Little Pushkar, after the lotus. It was to Little Pushkar that Brahma invited all of the gods to participate in the yagna. The lake became so holy that even the greatest sinners became sinless by bathing, helping them find heaven. Eventually heaven became very crowded. The gods complained that man no longer cared about them so Brahma ordained that the only auspicious days for absolution would be from the eleventh day of Kartik until the full moon on the fifteenth.
Today, during these five days, people visit in great numbers, some making religious pilgrimages to bathe in the holy baths or ghats. Pilgrims expect to receive health, wealth, progeny and ultimately - release.
And it is during these same days that the Pushkar Camel Fair or Mela comes to life. The fair is actually two great melas combined, one being the highest exaltation of the Lord of Creation - Brahma, the other, the largest camel fair in the world. The events draw a seemingly endless procession of camels and people - holy men, salesmen, pilgrims, snake charmers...
Many camel and cattle breeders journey well over a hundred kilometers of arid desertscape. As the Kartik moon fills to its purinama, they arrive from all directions, using every imaginable mode of transportation - in camel caravans, on foot, in tractors, trucks, carts and buses.
Nomadic mela professionals converge from all corners of India. Large tents, little shops and carpets fight for precious ground space, creating a circus atmosphere reminiscent of the 19th century.
Rides and ferris wheels are bolted together in an excited frenzy of celebration and anticipation. Carnival hustlers call out with enticement to each passerby. Palm readers try to coax you with promises of a glimpse into your future. Cotton candy makers compete with beard salesmen. The air is heavy with the scent of exotic elixirs and cooking curries. Close by, smiling dentists sit on their carpets recruiting new patients, promising them relief from their orthodontic anguish.
The combination of religious and carnival fervor surrounding the desert oasis creates one of the most colorful events in the world. Campfires and sunsets paint dramatic silhouettes. Holy men and hippies; tattooed ladies and colorful sari-adorned women; proud, mustached, turban-wearing Rajastani men (said to be the original gypsies), - all gather here.
The women of Rajastan seem like wind blown floral arrangements set against the earth-toned desert. They prepare fires for the evening dinner and never seem to rest. Between chores, they take time to catch up on gossip with women from other families. The children, eyes bright with excitement, take in the circus, rides, and magic shows. They feast on the many local sweet merchants’ wares. For a time, they are all distracted from their arduous lives.
The Pushkar Camel Fair is a colorful kaleidoscope of light, a circus of sight, from one inspiring vision to another. There is intention beyond the splendor. Business and religion drive these bustling events. Animals are everywhere. People bring them to the Fair, not simply to sell them, but also to participate in various organized competitions and exhibitions. The most entertaining event is the camel race. Owners buy and trade multitudes of ornaments and decorations for their camels and horses.
Weeks and months have led to these few days of celebration. Just as you think you will begin to succumb to the visual overdose, the focus starts to shift subtly from the desert’s dunes to the heart of the town. The Lord is hailed by many names and voices as the events culminate with the Holy dip in Little Pushkar. The energy and tempo build as the moon becomes full. The ghats come alive as the rays of the morning sun reach across the desert. Tens of thousands of people end the event with an enchanting and purifying puja.
As the throngs leave, and the desert shops and rickety rides begin to vanish, Pushkar falls back into its sleepy little existence, catering to the regular stream of tourists and pilgrims while it awaits the next full moon of Kartik.
This year, the Fair unfolds on November 8th and recedes into the desert after the
15th of the month.
